Photo of the Week – Five Fingers

Five Fingers Light

The Five Fingers Lighthouse in Frederick Sound

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Photo of the Week – Berg

Berg

An iceberg drifts under a leaden sky in Endicott Arm

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Grenville Channel

The Slot, the Big Ditch, or simply Grenville Channel.

Grenville Channel

Looking south in Grenville Channel

The nicknames are well earned on this long passage. On the maps it runs straight for over 44nm north and south and is the primary channel for all Inside Passage traffic. At our regular cruising speed of seven to eight knots it will take almost six hours to transit the channel. Six hours of very regular scenery, a wall of trees to each side of a half mile wide channel, it just continues for a seeming eternity.

The passage is broken by a number of excellent anchorages and inlets to explore. Places like Nettle Basin and Verney Falls, Klewnuggit Inlet, Baker Inlet and Watts Narrows all offer opportunities to break up the otherwise monotonous passage. Several of these places have been designated marine provincial parks.

At the north end you will find one of our favorites, Kumealon Inlet. An convenient few hours run from Prince Rupert it is the northernmost anchorage in the channel. The inner cove offers an excellent anchorage. Leaving Prince Rupert in the afternoon with enough daylight to reach this cove is a good plan.

Towards the south end Lowe Inlet hosts the large Verney Falls that doubles in height at low tide. With an early fall high tide coho salmon can be seen jumping the waterfalls as they attempt to reach the river above. There is a chance to see bears fishing here, waiting on the rocks at the left side of the falls.

The channel offers few navigational difficulties, almost no rocks or reefs to be aware of along the passage. The major issue is other traffic as almost all vessels transiting the Inside Passage use this narrow strait. Logs and other marine debris also demand wary piloting, particularly during high spring and fall tides that lift logs off of the local beaches.

Careful planning of the time and tides will aid your transit. A helpful push can be had if entering on an incoming tide and exiting with the outgoing tide. Otherwise expect to be fighting the tide all the way through. Facing an incoming tide one southbound passage we found our speed cut in half, dropping below four knots. A good time to duck into Lowe Inlet to explore Verney Falls while awaiting a favorable current.

An alternate route through Ogden, Principe and Petrel channels beckons on the map. This would add another day to your transit time, in exchange for a fascinating array of bays and inlets to explore. One of these years we are going to have to try that course.

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Photo of the Week – Engine

Engine

An old steam engine sleeps under the moss at Taku Harbor

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Photo of the Week – Taku Cabin

Taku Cabin

A abandoned cabin in Taku Harbor

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Wreck of the Eldoma

We did not know the wreck was there. It was the opportunity for a quiet anchor and perhaps some wildlife viewing that brought us to Barnard Harbor on Whale Channel and Princess Royal Island. We spotted the wreck the next morning when the low tide revealed the hulk sitting on a small gravel beach at the north end of the bay.

Wreck of the Eldoma

The wreck of the Eldoma in Barnard Harbor

Our shore party quickly identified the wreck as a tugboat, heavy deck gear for handling cables revealing the purpose of the stoutly built vessel. Her name was also found, carved on either side of the prow… The Eldoma.

We puzzled over the name, a bit Spanish perhaps? But the word was conflicted, El would be masculine, but Doma would be feminine. What?

The wreck is an attractive photographic subject, a few minutes were spent walking around the vessel and shooting a few pictures. This also revealed that the pile of debris in front of her is a second wreck, a much smaller vessel decayed to a bit of framing with an engine in the center.

Eldoma

The 1924 tugboat Eldoma

It is only after returning to civilization that the identity of the wreck is revealed. A quick internet search turns up a history of the vessel. The 65ft tugboat was custom built for the Hodder Towing Company in 1924, the Eldoma was designed for towing log rafts and barges in the Vancouver and Fraser River area.

The solution to her name is also found in the history. She was named for the women of the Hodder family of the time, the mother Elizabeth and daughters, Dorothy and Margaret. Take the first two letters of each name and you have El Do Ma, or simply Eldoma. No wonder we were unable to figure out the name.

Somewhere along the line she was sold to another towing company and renamed. The last mention of the vessel in the history is a sighting in the Queen Charlotte Islands under yet another name. I was unable to find anything on how she came to be wrecked in Barnard Harbor. Indeed there is very little mention of the wreck. Multiple searches fail to locate any mention of the wreck online, and only one image of the wreck by professional photographer, Richard Nowitz. Odd for an interesting wreck that has surely been visited may times by cruising folks, guests of a floating fishing lodge in the bay, and fishing boats that pass through the area.

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Photo of the Week – Bull

Brothers Islands Sea Lions

A large bull sea lion dominates the rock at the Brothers Islands pullout

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Photo of the Week – Whale in the Dusk

Whale in the Dusk

A humpback whale dives under gray skies and fading light

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Photo of the Week – Taku Cabin

Taku Cabin

A abandoned cabin under the spruce in Taku Harbor

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Photo of the Week – Taku Harbor

Nordic Quest in Taku

The Nordic Quest docked at the float in Taku Harbor

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