Alaska Boating Adventure?

Thinking that 2013 might be the year to charter a boat in the fantastic inland waters of Southeast Alaska? Well now’s the time to get serious. The availability of really nice boats to charter is limited and it’s time to plan and make your reservations. And be sure to give yourself and your family or friends enough time to explore and enjoy the trip. If you plan on “hard core” fishing, a week may be enough but anything else, whether it is whale watching, visiting Glacier Bay National Park, looking for bears, or just to relax and seek some fabulous photographic moments, take more time.   June is the top of the King salmon season around Juneau. The silvers can be hot in July and August, especially if you travel to the Elfin Cove area. Take a trip up to Skagway and have fun re-living the Gold Rush days.

The Nordic Quest is a pristine vessel just like your own boat. So check out the Charter page and click on Nordic Tug Charters and check its availability. 2013 charter dates are filling fast.

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Photo of the Week – Creek Street

Creek Street

The boardwalk of Creek Street in Ketchikan, Alaska

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Entrance Island

There are a number of choices for the night in western Frederick Sound or southern Stephen’s Passage. One of our favorites is the tiny harbor to be found at the entrance of Hobart Bay. On the south side of the aptly named Entrance Island is a sheltered cove with a small state float.

Entrance Island Float

The Nordic Quest moored to the Entrance Island float

There is a house on the island overlooking the float. But otherwise little sign that this spot is often visited. We have been the only boat on the float every time we have visited.

The entrance is not obvious until you are nearly upon it. The float is likewise hidden, not visible until you are nearly in the entrance, tucked in the western end of the cove. Approach is otherwise straight forward with few navigational hazards other than the small size of the cove. On a -4ft low tide we had 14ft of water underneath the keel of the Nordic Quest.
The float is in somewhat poor condition, while the pillars are fine, the wooden float is beginning to become waterlogged. Late in the 2012 season it was still usable, but I had water coming through the deck when I jumped down to secure the lines. The bollards and structure are still sound despite sitting rather low in the water.

The shelter to be found here is very good, you are unlikely to be even rocked in your sleep. This is a classic quiet Alaskan cove in a convenient location, a very pleasant place to spend the night.

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Photo of the Week – Winging North

Winging North

Looking down on the mountains and glaciers of British Columbia from a flight headed north

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Photo of the Week – Waterfall

Waterfall

A stream cascades into Princess Royal Channel

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Photo of the Week – Tool Shed

Tool Shed

Tools hanging at the ready in the tool shed at Lagoon Cove

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Endicott Arm & Dawes Glacier

There are several options for glacier viewing in Southeast Alaska. No visit to the region is really complete without a chance to witness the raw power of nature as embodied in a tidewater glacier. The roar and rush of enourmous blocks of ice calving from the glacier is truly impressive.

Dawes Glacier

Dawes Glacier terminates in the waters of Endicott Arm

The classic glacier visit near Juneau is a tour of Tracy Arm. This is the desitination of the fast tour boats that run from the cruise ship docks in Juneau on day trips to see the ice. A classic fjord, Tracy Arm is one of the most spectacular sights to see in a state where the definition of spectacular is set high.

Some times Tracy Arm is difficult to access, the ice often jams the channel between the cliffs. Accessing the glacier is difficult or dangerous for a small vessel, a game of navigating the shifting rafts of ice swirling on the tide. Often there is no choice but to push through the smaller blocks of ice at low speed, a nerve wracking experience as the ice bumps along the hull.

There is an option to Tracy Arm, the nearby and lesser known Endicott Arm is also a good choice. Endicott also features a tidewater glacier, Dawes Glacier. When Tracy Arm is difficult to navigate, Endicott can be easy, depending on the weather or the activity of the respective glaciers. While Tracy sees a steady parade of boats, one is often alone in Endicott, perhaps one or two other craft passing by in an all day visit.

The fjord is not quite as narrow as Tracy, as a result can be less clogged with ice and more approachable. The shorter length of Endicott allows for a faster in and out journey. The scenery is classic fjord, particularly nearer the glacier, where the sheer granite walls soar thousands of feet above the water. This is raw land, newly freed from the grip of ice.

Waterfall

A waterfall in Endicott Arm plunges into the fjord

This glacier is as good as any in Southeast Alaska, a wall of ice hundreds of feet high and half a mile across greets the traveller. There are actually three glaciers arriving at the sea here. A prominent medial moraine betrays the fact that two large glaciers combine to form Dawes. A smaller glacier can be seen adding to the flow from high on the north side, above the face. Another glacier with an impressive icefall can be seen in the hanging valley just before Dawes on the north side of the fjord.

Like Tracy Arm, entry to Endicott can be complicated by tidal currents on entry. An old terminal moraine forms a bar at the entrance through which an astonishing amount of water must flow each tidal cycle. Entry should be executed with due caution. Part way down Endicott is a resonably sheltered anchorage found on the charts as Sanford Cove.

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Full Moon

Full Moon

Full Moon taken 27Aug2007, 90mm f/12 APO and Canon 20Da

Full Moon will occur today at 01:21AST.

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Photo of the Week – Sunrise over Georgia Strait

Sunrise over Georgia Strait

Sunrise over Georgia Strait

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Khutze Inlet

Another excellent choice for anchoring along the primary Inside Passage cruising route. Khutze Inlet offers good place to stop and enjoy the wilderness that you have come to see. A short detour from Princess Royal Channel brings you to the top of the inlet where a sizable river enters with extensive tidal flats. The inlet is about 4 miles (7km) long.

The Nordic Quest in Khutze Inlet

The Nordic Quest anchored in the calm waters of Khutze Inlet

The Khutze River drains a large area of the coast here, much larger than the usual streams found along the coast here. At high tide the Khutze river is navigable up to two miles past the mouth, depending on tide. This defines navigable as using a craft drawing less than two feet. Go slow and keep a sharp watch for the rocks and snags that litter the river.

We took our launch up the river looking for bear. There were salmon in the stream and dozens of seals hunting them. There was plenty of bear sign, crushed grass and salmon carcasses on the bank, but we saw no bears. Knowing that the sound of the outboard would scare off any furry fishermen, we went as far as we could up the river and drifted back down with the motor off, letting the swift current push us back to the bay.

Khutze Inlet

Looking upriver in Khutze Inlet

Up the river the scenery is simply stunning, sheer cliffs and high peaks surround the inlet. Waterfalls tumble down those high valley walls. This is a place that has everything you expect in a British Colombian wilderness.

Anchoring offers only one slight concern, the stream delta at the rear of the inlet drops off quickly. Holding seems decent, but there are no currents and at worst you would drift into deep water. We simply set the anchor alarm and went to sleep. Crabbing here is quite good, we caught our limit and more with four pots deployed across the shallows at the top of the bay. It was annoying to have to return quite a few great crab back into the bay, we did keep the biggest ones.

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