Cedar Cove

Freshwater Bay offers several good anchorages. In past visits to Freshwater Bay we had used Pavlof Harbor. While providing a good anchorage, the harbor can be a bit busy, the small Alaskan experience cruise ships that ply these waters regularly stop in Pavlof. If you do not mind a small fleet of a dozen kayaks and a couple ribs running around, Pavlof can be a good choice.

Float House

A float house in Cedar Cove, Freshwater Bay

For a bit more solitude Cedar Cove is a better choice to our tastes. A mile further into Freshwater Bay the cove is an excellent anchorage with nearly bombproof shelter. Avoid the temptation of entering between the islands and come in from the western end along the shoreline. An alluvial fan at the outfall of a stream chokes the channel about halfway in forming a shallow bar. Once over that the cove offers plenty of room and a good anchorage in ten fathoms.

A sizable float house occupies the western end of the cove. On our last visit it looked occupied if somewhat poorly maintained, grass growing on the decks. The wreckage of another float house can be found on the southern shore, logs, cordage, and household items in the tidewater.

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Bear Prints

I was looking for a way to get off the beach through the thick brush. A small stream tumbled into the cove here, perhaps a photo or two of the stream?

A path through the bush is found. Why is there a path here? The prints in the sand give an answer… This path was not made for humans.

The prints are fresh, just a few hours since the last tide. I do not need photos of the stream that badly.

Grizzly Bear Prints

A set of grizzly bear prints in the sand.

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Newspaper Cottage

I was almost ready to turn around and head back, my father had several minutes ago. Hidden in the trees ahead I spot a dark shape… Another structure?

Newspaper Cottage

An abandoned cottage in the woods at Funter Bay

Drawing closer it is indeed a building, this one is not collapsed like most of the others we had found. There is not much left of the small cannery community in Funter Bay, the best preserved structures are those still used as private cabins. We had already found half a dozen collapsed buildings in the woods.

It may not yet have collapsed, but the inevitable is not far away. The front porch looks decidedly chancy, I avoid it as I slip carefully through the front door. A one room cabin with a small storage closet. The floor is covered with milled lumber that looks to have been salvaged from another structure. Various other bits of refuse and castoffs lie about, a crab pot, a gas can, no surprise.

Advertisements from 1919

Advertisements from 1919 including Libby’s mayonnaise salad dressing

It is the walls and ceiling that hold the real surprise. They are covered in newspaper pasted over the entire available surface. Was it decoration, a cheap wall paper? A way to eliminate drafts and make this little cabin more comfortable? Whatever the reason the newspapers are still mostly readable. Whole articles to be perused, a snapshot of another age.

The newspapers all bear dates from 1919, during the heyday of the cannery here in Funter Bay. There are samples from the Saturday Evening Post, Collier’s, and several other classic newspapers of the early 20th century. I find articles on various subjects, instead of reading I simply take a photo or two.

Alongside the articles there are also advertisements for many different products. Some are for familiar brands that are still around today. Others for brands and products lost to commercial history. Oregon City Woolen Mills, Philadelphia Battery, Boston Garter, Teco Self Rising Pancake Flour, I could spend all day reading here.

Fashion Plate from 1919

A fashion plate from April 1919

One of the most striking images is a fashion plate from a Woman’s Home Companion of April 1919. A very stylish design that catches my attention, a design that foretells the popular fashions of the roaring 20’s, a major shift in fashion that was leading to more modern designs. Exploring the ruins of an abandoned cannery this is not what I expected to find.

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Below the Waterline

I have never actually seen underneath the Nordic Quest, this part of the boat is normally hidden from view. Unless you wish to go swimming in 50 degree water. This summer I did get a chance to take a good look at another ’42 while she was still up for winter storage at Auke Bay.

Nordic Endeavor

The Nordic Endeavor in dry storage at Auke Bay

The Nordic Endeavor is just a couple years older than the Quest and is pretty much identical underneath. I found it particularly interesting to note the shape of the hull and to check out the main propeller and rudder area. I walked around underneath her and took a good look. There is quite a difference between viewing a drawing on a website and walking around the real thing.

One surprise was the keel. I knew the tugs have a large, solid keel, but the actual size still surprised me. It is even larger and more solid than I had envisioned. these are well built boats designed for Alaskan waters. I now understand how the occasional brushes with rocks have failed to do more than minor damage to the Quest or the other boats we know.

Propeller and Rudder

The propeller and rudder of a 40′ Nordic Tug

The rudder is also quite large, a match for the large five bladed propeller. Having so often swung this rudder around while performing docking maneuvers it was nice to see the real thing close up. The rudder post is not at the leading edge, but somewhat back. Is this an effort to provide some turning capability while in reverse? I need to look into this design to better understand the handling characteristics of the boat.

Bow Thruster

The bow thruster on a 42′ nordic tug

I also had a chance to look at the bow thruster. It is smaller than I had envisioned. Considering its power this little ducted propeller has a substantial amount of kick. I recently had occasion to turn the boat nearly 120 degrees at a fuel dock on thruster alone. It always surprises me how easily she can be turned, even more so having now seen the thruster that does the job.

The Nordic Endeavor had clearly had some maintenance done while she was dry. Fresh zincs are to be seen mounted to the cleaned and freshly painted rudder and propeller. She was ready to join the Quest in the water for the summer season.

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Helm

Helm

The helm of the Nordic Quest

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The 2016 Nordic Quest Video!!

It takes a while to make these little videos, a lot of tweaking to get it just right. Still, there are so many images, so many memories. Just watching allows me to relive so much of a great voyage!

Nordic Quest 2016 from Andrew Cooper on Vimeo

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Tenakee Small Boats

Tenakee Small Boats

Tenakee Springs – A way of Life

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Exploring the Sealion Cove Trail

My father mentioned that we planned to explore the Sealion Cove trail this summer. Planning to fish for king salmon in Salisbury Sound makes Kalinin Bay the obvious anchorage, where the trail head is found. This plan was to be realized, Tamara and I hiked the cove one grey afternoon and had a lot of fun doing it.

I have been to the lake and back years past, but the group I was hiking with was not ready to go the full distance to the beach at Sealion Cove. This is not a place to hike alone. We ended up turning around after enjoying the scenery at the lake. This time I really wanted to go all the way.

Sealion Cove Trail

The first section of trail along the top of Kalinin Bay

The first section of the trail follows the shore of the wide estuary that drains into Kalinin bay. The trail follows the treeline where the high tides and saltwater prevent the spruce from encroaching further. While there has been some effort to improve the trail here, with gravel spread and rock strategically placed at the many small streams, the effort looks to be futile. Deep mud pockets sucked at our feet and required careful footing. The dry socks in my pocket were obviously going to stay in my pocket, my river sandals often full of mud.

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The Alaskan Fishing Experience

Alaskan fishing… The cold and the rain, the misery and deprivation, the warm sticky buns straight from the oven…

Sticky Buns

Gary enjoying sticky buns while halibut fishing

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Donna’s Resturant

We usually have a day or two in Juneau to coordinate everyone’s arrival at the airport, shopping for groceries, and generally getting ready for a couple weeks on the water. This means we also need to eat somewhere.

Donna's

Donna’s Resturant, Mendenhall

One of our favorite stops is Donna’s Restaurant, a classic american diner just a couple blocks from the airport in Mendenhall. Nothing fancy here, just breakfast, burgers and classic diner comfort food. If you have a need for bacon and eggs, breakfast is served all day.

The folks who run Donna’s have opened an ice cream parlor in the next storefront, but you do not need to go next door to eat ice cream after your meal. Shakes and sundaes can be ordered in the restaurant as well.

Donna’s is located just a couple blocks from the airport along Glacier Highway. They are open seven days a week from 6am to 8:30pm. Most meals are $10-15.

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