Sandy Cove

Along with Samsing Cove there is another good anchorage choice across Eastern Channel from Sitka. Sandy Cove provides plenty of room, good holding and a great view of the surrounding mountains. While not quite as well sheltered from winds as Samsing this cove does allow a comfortable overnight anchor under all but the worst conditions. Take your pick, the two coves are only a mile and a half apart.

The entry is flanked by shallow breaking reefs but the channel is comfortably wide and deep, just stay in the center as marked on the official chart. We have anchored in the western bight at the nine fathom mark on the chart. The holding was excellent after a proper set.

Sandy Cove and Samsing Cove both provide easy access to fishing along the southeast side of Sitka Sound and options when the weather blows off the open Pacific into the sound.

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Halibut Fishing

Halibut Fishing

Ben showing why Halibut Fishing is such a strenuous task

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Appleton Cove

Appleton cove is not the most exciting or scenic place but it does have one major recommendation… It provides an excellent anchorage along the eastern end of Peril Strait.

There are few convenient anchorages along the wide northeastern end of Peril. Appleton is probably the best option, a good anchorage that does not require driving to the back of an inlet well off your course. Rodman Bay is a good anchorage, while a bit out of the way. Saook Bay has steep sides, we find Hanus Bay not well sheltered and quite shallow.

Appleton cove provides good holding in 6 to 8 fathoms over gravel and mud. We advise properly setting your anchor before setting in to sleep. There is ample swinging room for a dozen vessels, space never seems to be an issue here. The cove is sheltered from swell in all directions, but can be somewhat exposed to winds.

The entrance is simple, while rather narrow and shallow, the four fathom marks on the chart are a bit pessimistic. With a good GPS and chart fix entry is easy. We generally anchor in the central bight among the 6-7-8 fathom soundings on the chart. For more shelter you can use the western and eastern bights. Coming in late after a long cruise is not an issue, entering the cove in the half light of a late June evening with no worries.

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At Dock

Nordic Quest

The Nordic Quest at the Tenakee docks

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A Guide to the Fishing Boats of SE Alaska

When touring and fishing the inland passageways of southeast Alaska you will pass a wide array of other craft on the water. Your desire to catch fish might be for the sport of it or simply the desire to fill a cooler for the flight home. It is worth remembering that there are others who wrest a living catching the abundant salmon of these waters.

Roedda

The fishing boat Roedda departs the packing plant dock in Petersburg

Commercial fishing is highly regulated in Alaska. An active fisheries program monitors catch reports and surveys, using the data to set limits and to open and close areas to the fishing fleet on a daily basis through the season. The boats and crews live life from opening to opening, moving with the fish through the passages of SE Alaska, ready to set their nets where and when the opening starts.

Summer cruising in these waters one will come across the fishing fleet. A swarm of boats working a particular area. At first glance it may be confusing to an outsider. If you are observant you will soon see that there are several distinct styles of fishing in use. The commercial fishermen use a number of different techniques to catch fish, each method associated with a very different boat.

Continue reading

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Size in Perspective

Seagull in Vast Blue Sea

A seagull looks small against the vast blue water of Alaska!

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Inside Passage – Echoes of the Past

SE Alaska and the coast of British Columbia are a place where the past does not get wiped away. Ruins, wrecks, and abandoned places are often left for nature to reclaim rather than scrapped or redeveloped. When traveling the waterways of the Inside Passage you are often wandering through echoes of the past.

Inside Passage – Echoes of the Past from Andrew Cooper on Vimeo

Scene guide:

00:05 The Tlingit village of New Tongas, AK
00:08 Ketchikan, AK
00:10 Unknown fishing boat crew with catch
00:19 Juneau past and as seen in 2009
00:24 The motor vessel Crane (built 1928) past and in 2014
00:35 The Nordic Quest at Tenakee in 2011
00:39 A forest stream at Taku Harbor
00:43 The Taku cannery
01:03 A winch in the woods at Funter Bay, at the wrecks of several scows (see below)
01:06 Wreck of the tugboat Morzhovoi, an 84 foot diesel vessel owned by the Thlinket cannery, Funter Bay as seen in 2011
01:10 The tugboat Anna Barron of the Thlinket cannery with scows in 1907
01:14 The same scows seen in previous photo abandoned in the woods at Funter bay in 2011
01:18 Female grizzly bear and cubs at Pack Creek
01:31 Ivory Island lighthouse
01:34 The fishing boat Roedda breaks dock at Petersberg, AK
01:38 The steamer Cardena calls at Butedale, BC in the 1930’s
01:41 Butedale today
02:24 Ocean Falls, BC circa 1949
02:34 The Martin Inn, Ocean Falls circa 1949
02:38 The Martin Inn in 2014
03:09 The wreck of the tugboat Eldoma in Barnard Harbor, BC in 2014
03:13 The Eldoma as built for the Hodder Towing Company in 1924
03:27 The BC Ferry Nimpkish
03:32 Dall’s porpoise
03:40 Launch on the beach at Mamalilikulla (also Memkumlis), Village Island, BC
03:44 the village of Gwayasdums circa 1900
03:51 Ruins at Mamalilikulla in 2012
03:55 Ruins of a lodge at Mamalilikulla (also Memkumlis), photo by Edward S. Curtis in 1910
03:59 The same lodge ruins as seen from the second story of a ruined house at 03:51 in 2012
04:03 A carved wolf house post decaying in the woods at Mamalilikulla

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The Most Useful Tools Aboard

There are two tools I just can not get along without on the boat. The first of course is a screwdriver. A multi-bit style screwdriver with a complete set of straight, phillips, and the square drive bits so commonly used on boats. There is a full kit of tools aboard the Nordic Quest, usually everything you need, But it is the screwdriver that I grab first… You need a screwdriver to do just about anything.

Digital Multi-Meter

A digital multi-meter or DMM

The second critical tool is a DMM, or Digital Multi-Meter, commonly called simply a meter.

Checking for power, testing batteries, checking a cable for a break or short circuit, the DMM is critical. Properly used a DMM will give you a view into the electrical goings-on. Electrical circuits do not need to be as mysterious as black magic, they can be worked on. As you can not see electricity you need something to make it visible, to measure it, you need a DMM at a minimum. There are more advanced instruments, oscilloscopes, logic analyzers, etc., but the basic DMM can be found in any electronics lab and in every toolkit.

On the boat or on-the-job, I always have a DMM at-hand, I am an electrical engineer after all. I believe everyone should be as familiar with using a simple DMM as they are in using a screwdriver.

While a good Fluke or Agilent meter will set you back a few hundred dollars, a decent meter can be as little as forty or fifty dollars. There are cheap Chinese made meters for twenty or less, they usually work, but can be suspect with regards to safety on high voltage or high current circuits. Probably fine for working on the twelve volt circuits found on a boat. The meter in the toolkit on the Nordic Quest has helped solve the problem more than once.

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Approaching Point Retreat Lighthouse

Point Retreat Lighthouse

Approaching Point Retreat Lighthouse in Riffled Water Conditions.

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The List

As usual I did the shopping this year. Two pages of items meant to feed five to seven people for a week or two. It will usually end up being two shopping carts and several hundred dollars worth of food.

The Shopping List

The shopping list is covered with check-marks as the cart fills with groceries

Shopping has become a much easier exercise over the years as we have refined the shopping list based on experience. Making note of left-over supplies and what meals were popular we have eliminated many things on earlier versions of the list.

The plan provides for several different main meals plus breakfasts and snacks. The plan also depends on catching enough fish to build a few meals around, we have never failed to do this in southeast Alaska.

We never get the groceries quite right. Each crew ends up consuming different quantities of various items, We might run out of milk or eggs, but have plenty of bread on one trip, the opposite on the next. A chance to get a few items at a grocery store in Tenakee or Hoonah mid-trip can be useful. If not we just do without, it is a bit more dire if we run out of beer.

Then of course there are the inevitable questions… “Why do we have this and not that?” My answer… “It was not on the list!”

Not that I work strictly from the list, I do take reasonable special requests to handle special needs or simply personal tastes. This might be a lactose free milk for a lactose intolerant relative, or particular type of tea. Get your request in before the shopping is done and the boat leaves the dock.

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